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ULTRAVIEW FULL REVIEW

5.7K views 29 replies 12 participants last post by  Cjgropp  
#1 ·
I posted all of this in the Ultraview, Mathew’s and Hoyt Facebook group this past weekend. Figured I’d make a full post on here of a full review on the new UV Slider. I was fortunate enough to get one of the very very few this early from Lancaster. So here’s my full write up on setup, all the axis reviews and sighting in review, sight tape setup, micro adjust pin setup, shooting over 100 shots at 3D and the negatives I found. I got the sight in on Friday, did the initial setup and then Sunday i

Okay setup review:

This might be one of the easiest setups I have ever done to get my 1st and 2nd axis. The bridgelock bar fits nearly perfect without any wiggle in the bridgelock port just like the landslyde. I leveled my bow, and my scope bubble was off a little. I mounted a hamskea level to the slider rail and it confirmed that the scope bubble matched the rail. The instructions say to loosen the two mounting screws to the rail and then move the “1st and 2nd axis” screw until the bubbles are level and then tighten the railing screws back. I did this in 20 seconds. When I tightened the screws back in nothing changed. This is one thing that has always been finicky on the landslyde. I would get it level and then when I would tighten the cap bolts, it would shift sometimes.

4th pin setup.

I added the 4th pin indicator so I have reference for that tiny little pin at the bottom of the housing. Used T6 screw driver and took the indicator housing off, swapped the indicator with the provided double indicator and mounted the pin housing back on. Btw it’s all machines aluminum. Very tight tolerances.

3rd axis review.

setup at full draw with the hamskea gen 2 pro Level mounted to the rail and went up 45 degrees and down 45 degrees. was off just by a fraction, prob didn’t even need to move but I wanted to mess with it so per instructions it says to loosen the two screws to the rail, and the two screw in the pic, then turn the labeled 3rd axis set screw a little in the direction it needed to go, tighten the two bottom screws, tighten the rail screws and I double checked the 2nd axis didn’t move and it did not. Very easy to do. This sight is extremely user friendly so far. I have found my 20 yard pin within 20 minutes from setup and tinkering. Loving it. Will be going out to my range on Sunday to get the rest dialed in and will continue to write up a review on the process

Sighting in to 20 yards..

I shot at around 5 yards to make sure I was near the target, hit high right, adjusted my elevation easily, and the Windage adjustment is very smooth and stout. Pop out the Windage block and crank the dial a bit, pop it in. Very impressive. Elevation dial is very stiff but not annoyingly stiff, has great resistance and is buttery smooth when you want to move it.

Now so far I have one one particular complaint. The center pin which is the fixed pin is yellow fiber. I am inside my shop with not the best lighting and shooting at a black and white shooting block. The yellow blends in incredibly easy. I particularly am not a huge fan of yellow fiber. I like mine to be all green. The fiber light makes it work in this scenario. I turned it on and the pins glow nicely. Luckily lighted pins are allowed where I hunt, If I find enough time next week I may try to swap it out for green though. That’s my only knock so far.


Went to my archery club outdoor range to put the new UV slider through in the field testing. Below you will hear my thoughts and complaints on every aspect of finding my sight tape, setting up my micro adjustable pins and finally shooting it for over 4 hours. Again, I am in no way shape or form sponsored, or biased towards any product. I own a vtm 34 as well as a Mathew’s V3X. I was incredibly lucky to get this sight extremely early by calling Lancaster and they only had a lefty bridgelock which is why it’s mounted to my Mathews. Before I dive in, I will say 100% that additional white ring that goes inside the scope is incredible! Even if you don’t get this sight and have a uv3XL, get yourself one! Okay here we go!

Finding sight tape:

Per instructions, UV tells you to put the sight in tape on the metal railing, find your 20 and then go back out and find your 60 with your middle, fixed pin. The other day in my shop I was able to find my 20, so I just confirmed at the range and it was dead on. I walked back to 60 and “guessed” where it would be about the 20 range on the scale, I was way high so I dialed the wheel to about 12, high again, ended up at sight tape number 9. You can see on the setup tape that they label with numbers to make it easy to match up which exact sight tape you are. During the process once I was on my mark at 60, I was hitting about 3 inches right, so I opened the windage dial, clicked it moving my sight to the right about 3 clicks and shot again. Money!

I left the scope at 60, put on the #9 sight tape on the other side of my metal sight plate and matched the 60 yard to my indicator. I moved up to 20, shot, perfect, moved to a random number like 43 shot, money. This process is very typical with most slider sights so their only advantage I could really see is that the setup tape is numbered so it made it very easy to know exactly which sight tape # I was.

Sighting in my micro pins:

So now it was time to get my 2 micro pins sighted to 20 and 40 since my middle fixed will be at 30. I took the pin housing off the scope, laid it down on the #9 sight tape, matched up the middle pin to the 30 yard mark and moved the 20 and 40 to match the tape. Put the housing back in and then I adjust the 2 indicators to match the housing at 20 and 40 yards. I shot both 20 and 40 yards 6 times to confirm and it was right on the money. Now my 4th bonus pin at the bottom is at 60 yards exactly with my sight tape, it’s not adjustable, it just fell on that perfect when the scope is at 20,30,40 so I walked back to 60 and shot, it was dead on perfect! With the slider have indicators for all 3 pins, and being able to take the pin cartridge off, I was able to lay the pins down on the sight tape and move the pins to match. There’s no other sight that is able to do this so quickly. Normally I would have to sit there and micro adjust the pins after shooting groups which can take a while. So that’s a huge advantage here.

Shooting experience on 3D:

Now that I had my pins dialed, it was time to go and shoot at different targets at different angles/ distances. I shot over 100 arrows, I shot from 20 out to 100 using all of the pins at different times to double check the sight tape and the pins were dialed and they all were. I also left the scope at its original position so it was 20,30,40. And I would gap shoot distances in between those even numbers. I will say that initially inside of my shop I was not a fan of the yellow pin. It was very hard to see without the light being on and would blend in very easily. Outside was a different story when I was using that pin as my aiming pin. Gap shooting it was a little difficult, the green pin below or above would take over and I had to reallllly focus on keeping my focus and eyes on where I wanted to hit and not let the colors take over. Besides that it was phenomenal shooting experience, the elevation dialing was absolutely perfect, very crisp, very quick to change distances. After a few shots I figured out how to engage the lever seemlessly, it’s 2nd nature now.

The negatives:

Ok so I am very unbiased and I told y’all I would spill all the beans. I found 2 things that were not to my favor.

1 is the indicator pin colors suck. Outside in the light, the green is dull and the yellow fades away into the sight tape unless you move it close to your face to see. 3 times I ranged a target, dialed the indicator down to the yardage and shot low, I was like no way I missed that much. I look at the indicator and I put the top green indicator on my yardage and was using my middle fixed yellow pin to aim with. I will be either spray painting or using the wife’s nail polish to paint all of the indicators bright Red. I cannot have that mistake happen when I have a bull elk coming in and my adrenaline is pumping. I need to know exactly where I’m dialing to instantly and red always stands out to me like it does on the landslyde.

The 2nd thing was about half way through my shooting, I noticed a brief rattle. I wiggled my rest, it was tight, I wiggled the slider, that was tight, I wiggled the scope and it was loose. At first I thought the scope itself was loose from the scope bar, so I took the cartridges off and the screw holding the housing onto the scope bar was tight, it was the actual scope bar that runs into the sight block that was loose. I noticed there’s 3 tiny set screws on the front, top and back of the sight block so I went 1 by 1 and tightened them. I now know from tightening and loosing them that The front and back set screws lock your scope bar into place and do not let you change the windage, the top one is what was loose and needed to be tightened. With it tightened down, the scope and bar are rock solid but still allows you to change on the fly your windage as designed. Time will tell if that becomes something that happens regularly or if it was just a one time thing. Besides that the sight worked flawlessly.

Conclusion:

Today was the determining factor on if this sight was worth $600 and if it is in fact equal or better than the landslyde in my opinion and if it will be coming with me to New Mexico next week to hunt elk….. and to answer that in my opinion it’s YES to all 3. I love my landslyde no doubt about that. The UV slider feels like a modernized landslyde with the ability to swap out the mags and convert to a single pin with literally 1 screw. I also love having 3 indicators showing the main 3 pins and an indicator for my bonus pin. The reason I absolutely love that is it takes all guessing out of it. I have had times where I didn’t shoot at an animal because it took 4-5 steps in a direction when I had a range on its original pin and no reference as to where my other pins were. I don’t take unethical shots. Now that I have a quick reference as to exactly where my other pins are, even the little guy at the bottom, I feel I will be able to make better shots when it counts. I will be painting the indicators red, the colors really do suck on it now lol and I will continue to shoot the hell out of this to see if the scope rod coming loose was a fluke or if it does appear again so I will check back in but until then… Goodluck this season



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#3 ·
I just received mine..I was bummed about the upside down lefty stuff and was going to call them Monday..I thought they sent me wrong parts ! I feel better after reading your review..I also ordered a 2 pin cartridge, I can’t go back to side pins, especially coming out of the wrong side..I thought lefties got a raw deal when I shot traditional, this takes the cake ..I love my uv3xl so I was in at the start..funny thing is I stabbed my thumb with the nasty little pointers trying to assemble as per the instructions…Maybe give lefties a heads up that the grey snap lock will be on top for us..zero info that left handed means upside down..I was more than a little let down…your review lifted my spirits to give it a try…I owned an Arxos and sold it thinking Ultaview would make my dreams come true..the gap on the original was ridiculous to me..It didn’t gel with me and I liked the UV on a fast Eddie better..so the rut is starting in my area so I won’t switch my hunting bow now..I will but it on my v3x33 for a test run..albeit upside down..cheers all ! Good luck hunting!
 
#5 · (Edited)
it held up well for 1000+ shots. After September I haven’t done any hunting due to some family stuff going on and kids getting sick. It held up in New Mexico well. At the moment it’s in the box and waiting for a new bow. I turned my v3x 33 into a target bow for the time being. My next hunt is in January. Will start getting ready for it in the next few weeks. Below are pics of the 4th pin at the bottom

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#13 ·
I posted all of this in the Ultraview, Mathew’s and Hoyt Facebook group this past weekend. Figured I’d make a full post on here of a full review on the new UV Slider. I was fortunate enough to get one of the very very few this early from Lancaster. So here’s my full write up on setup, all the axis reviews and sighting in review, sight tape setup, micro adjust pin setup, shooting over 100 shots at 3D and the negatives I found. I got the sight in on Friday, did the initial setup and then Sunday i

Okay setup review:

This might be one of the easiest setups I have ever done to get my 1st and 2nd axis. The bridgelock bar fits nearly perfect without any wiggle in the bridgelock port just like the landslyde. I leveled my bow, and my scope bubble was off a little. I mounted a hamskea level to the slider rail and it confirmed that the scope bubble matched the rail. The instructions say to loosen the two mounting screws to the rail and then move the “1st and 2nd axis” screw until the bubbles are level and then tighten the railing screws back. I did this in 20 seconds. When I tightened the screws back in nothing changed. This is one thing that has always been finicky on the landslyde. I would get it level and then when I would tighten the cap bolts, it would shift sometimes.

4th pin setup.

I added the 4th pin indicator so I have reference for that tiny little pin at the bottom of the housing. Used T6 screw driver and took the indicator housing off, swapped the indicator with the provided double indicator and mounted the pin housing back on. Btw it’s all machines aluminum. Very tight tolerances.

3rd axis review.

setup at full draw with the hamskea gen 2 pro Level mounted to the rail and went up 45 degrees and down 45 degrees. was off just by a fraction, prob didn’t even need to move but I wanted to mess with it so per instructions it says to loosen the two screws to the rail, and the two screw in the pic, then turn the labeled 3rd axis set screw a little in the direction it needed to go, tighten the two bottom screws, tighten the rail screws and I double checked the 2nd axis didn’t move and it did not. Very easy to do. This sight is extremely user friendly so far. I have found my 20 yard pin within 20 minutes from setup and tinkering. Loving it. Will be going out to my range on Sunday to get the rest dialed in and will continue to write up a review on the process

Sighting in to 20 yards..

I shot at around 5 yards to make sure I was near the target, hit high right, adjusted my elevation easily, and the Windage adjustment is very smooth and stout. Pop out the Windage block and crank the dial a bit, pop it in. Very impressive. Elevation dial is very stiff but not annoyingly stiff, has great resistance and is buttery smooth when you want to move it.

Now so far I have one one particular complaint. The center pin which is the fixed pin is yellow fiber. I am inside my shop with not the best lighting and shooting at a black and white shooting block. The yellow blends in incredibly easy. I particularly am not a huge fan of yellow fiber. I like mine to be all green. The fiber light makes it work in this scenario. I turned it on and the pins glow nicely. Luckily lighted pins are allowed where I hunt, If I find enough time next week I may try to swap it out for green though. That’s my only knock so far.


Went to my archery club outdoor range to put the new UV slider through in the field testing. Below you will hear my thoughts and complaints on every aspect of finding my sight tape, setting up my micro adjustable pins and finally shooting it for over 4 hours. Again, I am in no way shape or form sponsored, or biased towards any product. I own a vtm 34 as well as a Mathew’s V3X. I was incredibly lucky to get this sight extremely early by calling Lancaster and they only had a lefty bridgelock which is why it’s mounted to my Mathews. Before I dive in, I will say 100% that additional white ring that goes inside the scope is incredible! Even if you don’t get this sight and have a uv3XL, get yourself one! Okay here we go!

Finding sight tape:

Per instructions, UV tells you to put the sight in tape on the metal railing, find your 20 and then go back out and find your 60 with your middle, fixed pin. The other day in my shop I was able to find my 20, so I just confirmed at the range and it was dead on. I walked back to 60 and “guessed” where it would be about the 20 range on the scale, I was way high so I dialed the wheel to about 12, high again, ended up at sight tape number 9. You can see on the setup tape that they label with numbers to make it easy to match up which exact sight tape you are. During the process once I was on my mark at 60, I was hitting about 3 inches right, so I opened the windage dial, clicked it moving my sight to the right about 3 clicks and shot again. Money!

I left the scope at 60, put on the #9 sight tape on the other side of my metal sight plate and matched the 60 yard to my indicator. I moved up to 20, shot, perfect, moved to a random number like 43 shot, money. This process is very typical with most slider sights so their only advantage I could really see is that the setup tape is numbered so it made it very easy to know exactly which sight tape # I was.

Sighting in my micro pins:

So now it was time to get my 2 micro pins sighted to 20 and 40 since my middle fixed will be at 30. I took the pin housing off the scope, laid it down on the #9 sight tape, matched up the middle pin to the 30 yard mark and moved the 20 and 40 to match the tape. Put the housing back in and then I adjust the 2 indicators to match the housing at 20 and 40 yards. I shot both 20 and 40 yards 6 times to confirm and it was right on the money. Now my 4th bonus pin at the bottom is at 60 yards exactly with my sight tape, it’s not adjustable, it just fell on that perfect when the scope is at 20,30,40 so I walked back to 60 and shot, it was dead on perfect! With the slider have indicators for all 3 pins, and being able to take the pin cartridge off, I was able to lay the pins down on the sight tape and move the pins to match. There’s no other sight that is able to do this so quickly. Normally I would have to sit there and micro adjust the pins after shooting groups which can take a while. So that’s a huge advantage here.

Shooting experience on 3D:

Now that I had my pins dialed, it was time to go and shoot at different targets at different angles/ distances. I shot over 100 arrows, I shot from 20 out to 100 using all of the pins at different times to double check the sight tape and the pins were dialed and they all were. I also left the scope at its original position so it was 20,30,40. And I would gap shoot distances in between those even numbers. I will say that initially inside of my shop I was not a fan of the yellow pin. It was very hard to see without the light being on and would blend in very easily. Outside was a different story when I was using that pin as my aiming pin. Gap shooting it was a little difficult, the green pin below or above would take over and I had to reallllly focus on keeping my focus and eyes on where I wanted to hit and not let the colors take over. Besides that it was phenomenal shooting experience, the elevation dialing was absolutely perfect, very crisp, very quick to change distances. After a few shots I figured out how to engage the lever seemlessly, it’s 2nd nature now.

The negatives:

Ok so I am very unbiased and I told y’all I would spill all the beans. I found 2 things that were not to my favor.

1 is the indicator pin colors suck. Outside in the light, the green is dull and the yellow fades away into the sight tape unless you move it close to your face to see. 3 times I ranged a target, dialed the indicator down to the yardage and shot low, I was like no way I missed that much. I look at the indicator and I put the top green indicator on my yardage and was using my middle fixed yellow pin to aim with. I will be either spray painting or using the wife’s nail polish to paint all of the indicators bright Red. I cannot have that mistake happen when I have a bull elk coming in and my adrenaline is pumping. I need to know exactly where I’m dialing to instantly and red always stands out to me like it does on the landslyde.

The 2nd thing was about half way through my shooting, I noticed a brief rattle. I wiggled my rest, it was tight, I wiggled the slider, that was tight, I wiggled the scope and it was loose. At first I thought the scope itself was loose from the scope bar, so I took the cartridges off and the screw holding the housing onto the scope bar was tight, it was the actual scope bar that runs into the sight block that was loose. I noticed there’s 3 tiny set screws on the front, top and back of the sight block so I went 1 by 1 and tightened them. I now know from tightening and loosing them that The front and back set screws lock your scope bar into place and do not let you change the windage, the top one is what was loose and needed to be tightened. With it tightened down, the scope and bar are rock solid but still allows you to change on the fly your windage as designed. Time will tell if that becomes something that happens regularly or if it was just a one time thing. Besides that the sight worked flawlessly.

Conclusion:

Today was the determining factor on if this sight was worth $600 and if it is in fact equal or better than the landslyde in my opinion and if it will be coming with me to New Mexico next week to hunt elk….. and to answer that in my opinion it’s YES to all 3. I love my landslyde no doubt about that. The UV slider feels like a modernized landslyde with the ability to swap out the mags and convert to a single pin with literally 1 screw. I also love having 3 indicators showing the main 3 pins and an indicator for my bonus pin. The reason I absolutely love that is it takes all guessing out of it. I have had times where I didn’t shoot at an animal because it took 4-5 steps in a direction when I had a range on its original pin and no reference as to where my other pins were. I don’t take unethical shots. Now that I have a quick reference as to exactly where my other pins are, even the little guy at the bottom, I feel I will be able to make better shots when it counts. I will be painting the indicators red, the colors really do suck on it now lol and I will continue to shoot the hell out of this to see if the scope rod coming loose was a fluke or if it does appear again so I will check back in but until then… Goodluck this season



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Excellent review and write up. Thank you for the time it took you to do this.
question though. Why do sights. Not come with the 2nd and 3rd axis not already leveled ? Does it change on different bows where they would be level ? I would think as much money as these sites cost one wouldn’t have to level all that.. just a question and then an opinion
 
#14 ·
There used to a time when the machining tolerances of risers required the checking of axes and putting washers under screws to get everything squared and level. Nowadays the tolerance are precise enough that they could just sell the sights without axis adjustment and everyone would be fine. However, now that people have it in their heads, customers would complain about their absences. So we're stuck in an endless loop of redundant adjustability.
 
#21 · (Edited)
The lack of a smaller scope option with vertical pins is killing it for me. I saw a 3 vertical pin teaser on ElkShape but no announcements on when that's an option. Plus no talk of the smaller non-xl version as a package.

They are so far behind with production that you won't even get one until April+, and that being the case you'll never be able to get just the sight without the scope because of priority over the complete package.

I also don't like that they didn't come out with a non-xl version that has the two screws that won't fall out instead of the 4 screws that are easily lost as a standalone. All things that could be in the works at some point.

So long story short, my review is they built a better mousetrap, but they are in over their heads right now. Maybe this will be the catalyst to scale their business to handle demand.
 
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#26 ·
I hear you. I think personally since everything they offer is not made in house and mostly made over seas, they probably aren’t able to really prototype and explore options without paying an arm and a leg. Would be nice if you could order the configuration you want instead of having to be stuck with the 3 pin that comes with it