I shot both Zwickey Eskilite 135gr. non-vented and Magnus Stinger 125gr. vented heads and both fly equally well. I made sure my arrows were bareshaft tuned to the best of my abilities and did a quick spin-test of the mounted heads.

 

I would rather shoot a non vented head for hunting. So nothing can get caught up or build up in the hole to stop penitration

 

I have shot non-vented Magnus heads without any issues at all

 

I like non-vented heads, they should be stronger and they have been quieter in flight for me. I'm not sure if the difference in noise or the theoretical strength difference between vented and non-vented heads is meaningful, but I have bent the blades of vented heads in deer and I like the quiet flight of the solid heads over the buzz of vented.

I haven't noticed any difference in accuracy either, I have Woodsman Elites in 150 grains (vented), and 175 and 250 grains (non-vented) and all are easy to sharpen and fly as well as any head I've ever tried. I've shot the 150gr. and 175gr. out of my compound and they fly and group just as well as the small compound oriented heads like Slick Tricks and Montecs.

The Woodsman Elite or VPA 175 grain head is tough to beat for a three blade in that weight range. The WE is made by VPA, they are basically the same from 175 grains and up except for color. Slight differences in shape with the under 175 grain heads. All of VPAs broadheads are non-vented except for the 100 grainer.

 

Don't mean to hijack but what is a spin test?

 

Spinning the arrow with a broadhead attached then watching the broadhead to see if it spins true, i.e., no wobble. I've always done it with a simple board with nails in an "x" pattern, one "x" at each end. The arrow sits in the bottom of the two "x's" and you spin the arrow with your fingers being careful not to exert downward pressure between the supports which might bend the arrow...and will show up as wobble in the broadhead. Very simple to do, less simple to describe. This thread shows some more sophisticated but still home made spin testers:

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=130640#000000

You can try just spinning the broadhead tipped arrow in the "v" formed from a couple finger nails, spin the arrow with the point down on a bench and watch for wobble, lots of ways but a spin tester is the best. Even if they spin true I still shoot them for peace of mind.

 

Spin your broadhead and you'll be fine... however... make sure that they are on and spin straight. wensel and snuffers are great heads. I use glue on Snuffers.

 

When you spin the arrow in the nails it's easiest to put a period on a piece of paper and have the broadhead point at the period. Spin the arrow and the point should point at the period through the whole rotation.

I don't like the non-vented head for all the reasons above. Especially the potential penetration problem pointed out by Bowhunter n MD. Thought I was the only one thinking of that problem. With that said, I shoot the big vented Snuffer. Bowmaker.net suggest tuning with it, so why not shoot it. Last 4 bucks I hit the off shoulder, with no problem to the BH, but I'm not shooting heavy poundage.

Bowmania

 

You shouldn't have any issues with vented vs nonvented in the heavier models. Its really a setup/tune/form issue rather than a head issue anyway. Although broadheads are just part of the set up, people just always seem to blame the heads for some reason. Field points and expandables are very forgiving to form and set up/form/tune issues. Fixed blades aren't as much and LIGHT WEIGHT nonvented fixed blades not as much as vented. The faster a bow the more exaggerated the issues. With tens of thousands of heads in the field I am not aware of a single flight issue reported with our heavier models. Every VPA model has a satisfaction guarantee though. If you don't like them send them back for refund or exchange.

 

rayzor - does VPA make an expandable for low KE bows - like trad bows?

 

Expandable and low ke bows? Them two don't mix amigo.

 

I have shot both vented and non-vented, and from 2 through 4 blade heads with no problems. I currently shoot Zwickey 135 2 blade Delta glue ons on wood arrows with a total grain weight of around 450 - 500. I haven't actually set them on a scale so I don't know for sure.

When it comes to spin testing, I am always reminded of a comment I read that seems like common sense. "Never point spin test your arrows in your hand with a broadhead." Unfortunately, I can believe someone somewhere had to try that.

 

I've noticed that non-vented heads pull easier from block targets, like the Rinehart 18-1 for example, and without dragging the stuffing out with it. Target life is extended.

 

Vented blades are a product of higher arrow speed from compounds. Some guys reported that non-vented heads whistle in flight.
So far as low KE (or traditional) and expandables- NO! NO! NO! If you are concerned about penetration, go with a two blade, cut on contact BH.
Don't get concerned with KE. Look at momentum. KE places emphasis upon arrow speed, while a momentum formula focus upon what an arrow is meant to do- penetrate.

 

Vented blades are a product of higher arrow speed from compounds. Some guys reported that non-vented heads whistle in flight.
So far as low KE (or traditional) and expandables- NO! NO! NO! If you are concerned about penetration, go with a two blade, cut on contact BH.
Don't get concerned with KE. Look at momentum. KE places emphasis upon arrow speed, while a momentum formula focus upon what an arrow is meant to do- penetrate.

Ironically I've found just the opposite, the vented produce more noise in flight than non-vented, whether we are talking compound or my recurves.

 

SDHUNTR

I have been using these for two or three seasons now with great success: http://www.ragebroadheads.com/products/40KE.html#.UhUmyr4o670 - out of a 48lb recurve - so they mix quite well for me amigo - Just was seeing if there were others out there making a similar product.

 

I agree as well - if anything - a vented would likely make more noise - but I have never used a vented - oh - wait- I take that back - I used Wenzel Woodsmans one season and was not real impressed with them

 

I used the original Wensel Woodsmans before the Woodsman Elites came out. I thought they were good heads once you got them true with a big mill file but it took a lot of careful work to keep them symmetrical, they were very rough out of the package.

The Woodsman Elites are a vast improvement in my opinion, I especially like the heavier non-vented versions. I'm sure you could hunt with them right out of the package but I always shoot them first and then touch up the blades...but then I never hunt with a broadhead right out of the package.

 

As you know, I am not a fan of heavy - so they are not for me

 

Has anyone tried the Magnus Stinger 'Killer Bee' yet? It is non-vented, two blade, and comes in 100 and 125gr. On the package it says it was tested to 360 fps with crossbow in mind, but it also states you can use it with anything, including trad bows.

 

Did you look at the VAPs?

 

I haven't tried the Killer Bees yet, but before going to the Zwickey's I used Magnus 1s and never had a problem. Will have to check them out.

In my experience, vented blades are a bit noisier than non-vented, but if your arrow speed and accuracy are good enough does it really matter? I use non-vented because it is what I have grown comfortable with. Never had a problem with penetration, though I do get a lot of pass-throughs. I first started using vented blades while shooting a compound because of the ease of replacing the blades. As far as I can tell, that is the only real advantage.

Guess I am another dinosaur...

 

Just received a pack of 175 grain Woodsman Elite. Very nice looking head. Very pleased with how well the fly and like someone mentioned, they don't seem to tear up the broadhead target. This is my first go-around with a non-stainless broadhead. What care do you guys use to keep them from rusting?

 

I just rub a little oil on the edges. Mine have not rusted but I rarely hunt in the rain. I recently pulled out three that have been in the quiver since last fall and no rust, still sharp too although they will get a touch up. My quiver has foam in the hood that the arrows get pushed into, not sure if that has any effect toward keeping moisture in the atmosphere off the blades.