I had good luck even with the XV .006 Sport arrow but it all depends on the lot or batch you got. I went the cheap route and bought some Victory VAP TKO in .006 Sport thinking they will be just as good if I cut them short and from both ends but found that most of them still wobble when spin. If money is not a big concern and you want the best arrow, I would stick with the Elite .001 arrows to save you the headache. I have not tried the .003 Gamer middle series to see if they are as bad as the Sporter I got recently though.

 

The Gamers are the ones that I've been reading about that are as good as the Elite's.

 

My 27.5 inch gamers are pretty straight. No wobble with a broadhead,

 

Same Gamers are where its at in their entire lineup, out of 48+ shafts I may have had a few that had some run out. But this was nothing that was not solved with correct cutting down of the arrows.

 

I always buy .006 victory arrows. They're consistency is the best I've seen. When I cut them 26in c2c they're basically perfect.

 

Cut an inch off the back then cut to length off the front. Square both ends and build them. They will at least be .003 or better.

Things the manufacturers don't want you to know.......

 

Bought a 6 pack of Victory RIP XV Elite 300 from sportsmans warehouse already fletched. I cut then down to my size and squared it off. They come with the needed nock and insert that I hot melted on. Bullet hole thru paper (28.5DL and 60DW) Total arrow with a 100gr tip is 350gr. Shoots a ripping 315 fps thru crono outta my pse full-throttle with evolve cams.
Good and strong light arrow. Only down side is that there $110 bucks for a 6-pack

 

I'm gonna be 29" at 83#'s. If I did the math correctly I should be at 375gn. (According to Mfjj's speed calculator on his website I should be getting 340+)

 

if you are able to cut a few inches off your arrow, then you can cut off any imperfections. so if you take the time to check every arrow you can get .006 arrow just as good as .003 or .001. i have a short draw so i have short arrows and i’ve used all three i couldn’t see any difference between either. so if you can cut some of your arrow off and wanna take the time to cut off any wobble go with the .006. if you can’t or just don’t want check what you buy, then get the .003 or .001 depending on what you can afford.

 

Ive got some 300 VX Gamers, work fine. Just off the tip and they spin great.
From memory the victory shafts are "at worst, you will see this much wobble" but often they are way better. Dont bet on them all being glass if you buy sports shafts, but usually they are better than claimed.

 

Are these for hunting? RIP XVs are fine arrows but I'm sure you could get to your desired weight with the HLR. It's definitely a more durable shaft than the XV.

 

Personally after an arrow/broadhead has taken an animal I remove them from service.

 

I have blown thru elk with them, I probably could have reused them, but it served it's purpose. I have not broke one where another arrow would have survived

 

Seems like I need to give them a try. The biggest thing I'll be shooting at is a Black Bear if it wonders in while I'm deer hunting...lol

 

Watch your gpp-value.
At 4.5 the bow won’t explode during the fist shot, but its patience gets stressed more and more.

 

Should be fine at 8 gpi. I'll be shooting a 250 spine.

 

Consider you carbon to carbon length. Mine is 29.75" so I do get to cut the wobble out like someone that's shooting 27" CTC.
Woe is me with that 30.5" draw length.... 😂

 

I've been using the Victory RIP XV and RIP shafts for the last several, (?), years. Prior to that, I shot quite a few deer with the .245 ID HV's and V Force shafts.
The RIP's are straighter and more durable than the .245 ID equivalents.
I use the Elite shafts mainly for tuning, the Gamer shafts with fixed blade BH's for hunting, and the Sport shafts for practice, 3D, and low profile mechanical BH's. I have .400, .350, and .300 spine shafts in both RIP XV and RIP shaft weights. I don't use the stainless steel inserts, (if anyone needs a few), because the aluminum inserts are durable enough, and tapped for insert weights which expands the versatility quite a bit.
I find the stiffer/heavier shafts are generally straighter than the lower spine shafts, The Gamer grade shafts I have are so close to Elite grade shafts that my eye can't tell the difference by spinning the shafts in hand. The weight uniformity of the Gamers are maybe a couple 10ths of a grain more variable, according to my digital handloading scale, sometimes not even that much off. Affordable scales are not typically accurate enough to really see the difference, so the variation observed may be the scale, not the shaft. ??

I like the Victory .204's.
They may have an edge as penetration goes. Helpful if you're using a combination that nets a low end KE.
The smaller ID makes for a thicker, more durable wall. I've yet to have even the .400's come apart on impact, they are not rock proof.
They cost less than most other small diameter shafts, if economy is on your list.

 

I had a shop owner tell me you never cut from the back because YOU WILL make the arrow wobble even if .001 straightness. That's why he recommends you just buy .001 anyway and just cut from the front....... That's one of the many reasons I don't step foot in that shop anymore lol

Anyhow, I think most of us buy .001 just to feel like it gives us an advantage lol. I've read about tons of people getting good results with .003 if you cut from both the back and the front some people suggested.

 

I had a shop owner tell me you never cut from the back because YOU WILL make the arrow wobble even if .001 straightness. That's why he recommends you just buy .001 anyway and just cut from the front....... That's one of the many reasons I don't step foot in that shop anymore lol

Anyhow, I think most of us buy .001 just to feel like it gives us an advantage lol. I've read about tons of people getting good results with .003 if you cut from both the back and the front some people suggested.

This makes sense on Victory arrows just because they’re rolled on a mandrel of a fixed length, probably around 32”. Easton is the outlier in that the shaft they cut from is many many feet long, so in reality its already cut “from” the middle hehe.

Overall can’t go wrong with Victory arrows. I shot them for many years, and I still use the RIP TKOs for my group shooting close range day to day bang into each other arrows. Just ridiculously tough. I shot TAC last year with the RIP and it did well and got me a little flatter trajectory. I’ve put both VAP and RIP TKOs through multiple animals. I don’t have the luxury of “retiring” an arrow after going through an animal… last year I would have gone through 2 dozen arrows. Pick them up, clean them off, flex them, spin them…. never had one that was in one piece have an issue. I hot melt my inserts, and I did replace a few half outs over the years, but that was it. I discovered, once a pig rolls over an arrow… all of them snap, so super durability is really for me more a thing for daily practice arrows than hunting arrows.

Agree ICE coating is the bomb.