Use a spine calculator instead of an arrow chart.

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I find completely the opposite. I find i need to shoot stiff arrows out of my bows. Most are cut 1/8" past center. I think shooters style and habits affect spine alot. I shoot a longer arrows shaft as well that dictates a stiffer spine for a mid range broadhead. I feel like the most accurate spine calculator out there is the 3rivers version on their website.

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If using a chart you need to know your fudge factors, center shot, length of draw and arrow, difference in dynamic spine from the norm of 100 gr to 175 or 125/150. Also the efficiency of the bow enters as does mass weight. On my WFX risers, I need a stiffer spine. Set # on the fingers same as my Hoyt riser, same Velos limbs etc. my Hoyt riser likes a softer spine. I shoot 470 spine ACE’s at 44# on the WFX, bareshaft good to 50M. On the Hoyt riser at 44# my 470 are a foot stiff at 50M. My 520 ACE are close to perfect. The WFX is stiffer and weighs 16oz as set up heavier.

 

Crazy huh? I have 500's flying perfect out of my 34 pound bow. If it works go with it.

 

Every spine chart I’ve ever seen stated somewhere that...

“This is just A SUGGESTED STARTING POINT”

no spine chart or calculator can take into consideration things like strike-plate thickness, string material/construction, brace height, bow mass, etc. let alone the dynamics behind the individual archers execution and release...I guess the thinking is that if things wind up stiff?...you can always resort to heavier points but if things are to weak?...you’re screwed.

 

Well you need to look closer at 3Rivers calculator then. It asks for those things. I always buy full length, start long and trim to but have always been within a quarter inch of the calculator suggested length.
But I shoot 1/8" past center cut bows only as a rule. I also know what weight heads I prefer.

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Yup. Have two 40@28 and 500's are too stiff. Got em in the classifieds almost all unshot! Sadly I bought 3 dozen figured I was set. They SEEMED to fly well enough but saw some flagging that indicated I need a softer spine. Going to try either 1916 aluminum or 600/700 carbons and do the cut and shoot method. I have a DL of 28 actually, shoot split finger, and am using 125 grain tips. Not to hijack, but can I get some suggestions on spine and arrow length using what I have given above?

 

Calculators are not foolproof by any means, even with all the so-called gozintos that are used to calculate dynamic spine. You want to never have to worry about interactive charts, then learn how spine works. Once learned, you don't need anything but a static reading and then apply your personally dynamics to that. I know we live in a world of instant information, so much that it locks down the left brain to a state of torpor. Learn spine...static and dynamic, and all of the little things that make it happen. It's really not difficult, and completely eliminates the need to rely on interactive mumbo-jumbo, which most of it is. It analogous to giving a man a fish, or teaching him to fish.

 

Defying all logic the spine chart recommended arrows bareshaft group just fine with my bow out to 25 yds and at 30 yds lower spine arrow bareshafts don't group anybetter than the stiffer arrows???? Maybe just me... Guess you have to try and see what works for you..

 

Possibly. I found the calculators get me in the rough ball park. Ive found best results by posting photos of my groups and using other's feedback to make changes.