Sure, no need for a peep though.

Most compound hunting sights don't have enough pin-gap to shoot beyond 25-30yds but otherwise they can work fine. Some people keep them on, others find they eventually don't need them.

If you just punch paper then a FITA recurve sight will work. Heck a matchstick taped to the riser can work.

The other option is to learn stringwalking and use the arrowtip as a sight.

-Grant

 

Bill -

Before the neo-trad movement, as many recurve shooters used sights as didn't.

Grants is correct. If you plan on shooting close range, most any sight will work, including most compound sights. Most decent (170 fps) bows need about 2" of vertical travel to reach 40 yds or so.

Peep sights are are NOT necessary, that's what your anchor is for and yes, a match stick is good idea before you shell out cash for a real sight.

Now for the bad news. AT close range, most people don't miss because of aiming problems. It's almost always some type of form for shooting technique issue. That's another reason TO try a sight - it takes aiming out of the equation and will reveal form problems pretty quickly. Yes, it's that unforgiving!

Before trying stringwalking there are easier aiming techniques you can play with, such as point of aim, where you use a reference point usually below the target and disregard the target entirely. Again, the idea is to turn the arrow or part of the bow into a sight.

Viper1 out.

 

I use sights for form checks, tuning, and when I'm not in the mood to lose an arrow. I've use a cheap 3 pin sight bolted to my bow with a home made adaptor that raises it up high enough for a low anchor. I've tried peep sights and they're more hassle then they're worth. Because of the pin gap, I had to lower my anchor on the longer shots to keep the pin in the peep.

The trad-police will probably consider it sacrilege. But, it's your setup. Ignore them.

FWIW, The shop owner where I used to shoot had an oversized kisser button on his hunting compound instead of a peep sight. He lined it up on the top of his nose instead of his lips. It might work for you.

 

sights or no sight, who cares what others think. if you think you would be happy shooting with a sight go for it and have fun.

 

Thanks fellas. It's one thing to want nice tight clusters in the target. It's quite another to consider taking a shot at a mammal, and if I need some help in this department, so be it. It's so easy to pile the arrows in with a compound, but I want to move beyond that.

 

Bump. Just put a sight on my samick sage.. I love it. Plus its too late being deer season to lean how to shoot 20 yards without it. I love it. My pins are 15. 25. 35

 

Krealitygroup.. are you still around? What 3-pin signt did you purchase for your sage?

I have a Cartel Medalist, and it's ok. Major complaints is that the left/right keeps slipping and I have to re-tighten. Also it only allows 1 distance setting which makes it meh for hunting. If you set it at 20, 25, 30 ft you still have to manually adjust and it just provides a reference. As such you'd probably never use it in a 3D shoot, it'd get you put in the same category as compounds. Speaking of, I have seen some real nice and inexpensive compound multiple pin sights.. just need adapters to fit the bow.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/cartel-medalist-sight-8-32.html

 

I put a sight on my bow last April. My scores on the NFAA indoor round actually dropped twenty or so points for two months. It actually became more difficult for me to shoot. Several months later, I think it has helped me tremendously, and I could probably get over that 249 hurdle I was working on barebow, if I ever decided to go back. I'm pretty much married to the sight now, along with the clicker. It was the best decision I ever made, except for marriage, school, ah, never mind.

 

Why not,,archery is a solo perspective and endeavor..have fun!

 

@krealitygroup- What type of sight did you put onto your Samick Sage? I just bought my wife one and was looking to set it up with a sight and a rest... just to make her transition a little less complicated.

 

ir!sh -

One of my guys is using this one:
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Simplex+Adjustable+Bow+Sight_i77692_baseitem.html

Compact, simple and seems to work fairly well.

Viper1 out.

 

This is the sight I purchased, it seemed "simple".

 

I think sights are great I use a Hindsight Magnum and a Trophy Ridge Firewire V5 sight it shows all of the errors in your form immediately. Bow torquing especially. I also use a kisser button as well and although was tougher it is making for faster and more accurate target acquisition and I am all for that at bowhunting range.

 

Any particular model sight you put on your sage?

 

I was considering putting a sight and full capture rest on my Saber but after shooting it without for a month I found that I don't need one at all. Up to 25 yards I have a four inch group which isn't that bad for instinctive shooting.
Frankly, there's something personally satisfying to go from the mechanical precision of a compound bow to the instinctive presicion of the recurve.

 

gamohunter nice looking set up I sent you a pm with some questions.

 

Resurrecting this old thread instead of starting a new one. I've been shooting a Samick Sage 40# for a couple of months now. I think I understand and practice basic form pretty well. I'm sure I could use a coach, but that's not an option at the moment. My issue is that I cannot get a group at any distance unless I use a match stick sight. Actually a toothpick...

With my toothpick sight I can consistently get 4" groups out to 20 yards. I've only tried distances longer than 20 a couple of times, but with the toothpick even that I'm happy with. But as soon as I remove the toothpick, arrows go everywhere. Do I simply need more practice? Is there some drill or exercise I can try to help eliminate the need for the toothpick? I would have no problem mounting a permanent sight and using that, but haven't found one I like. Inexpensive and simple seems to equal heavy, and one of the reasons I love shooting the recurve is the lightweight bow. I just looked at the "Simplex" sight linked above and that looks promising, but I would still prefer to reach the point where I can get decent groups with no sight.

Thanks for any advice.

 

This sticky thread may be of help:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1775877

The aiming tactics discussed range from aiming via feel of general sight picture right on up to some very specific and measured gap tactics using the arrow's shaft and point (your new, free sight!) as a reference.

I'd take a peek at the nature of split vision and simple gapping (minus the exacting calculations).

While aiming with your matchstick, mentally switch to the split vision tactic and use your peripheral vision to note the lower location (vague feel of this is fine) of the shaft and point under your primary line of vision to the mark. If you can repeat this sight picture without the matchstick, you should start slowly and steadily moving towards your matchstick's accuracy with the substitution of this "under-sighting" tactic.

Accuracy comes with repetition on these tactics, so patience is your ally. If the simple split/gap is fruitful, later you can explore more exacting tactics that precisely systematize these basic sight pictures.

Good luck. Others will pop in with their thoughts, as well. (By the way, I shoot split vision exclusively other than with an Oly rig, and once the hang of it is "got" - it ain't a shabby way to shoot in the least!)

 

I made a Halo sight out of 1/8" welding rod I threaded to 6-32 thread, and it works fantastic on my home-made Warf with Martin Jaguar limbs. The halo is shaped like a diamond, and the top of the diamond is for close shots, the bottom is for long shots. At 10gpp, and 50#, 170fps, my halo is 1" tall, and 1/2" wide. I mounted it with the fat part of the diamond right at 20 yds. It goes from 10-30 yds, and is really easy to use. I never take it off my hunting bow, and use that bow just for hunting. Hope this helps.
Hank

 

Any pics of this sight