Anyone seen one in person? Might be an inexpensive wood ILF riser, but hopefully not cheap, 
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White Feather Lark riser?
Crunch
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Does it shoot better without a side plate? I have another WFL riser coming soon and trying to find the best setup for it.I just had my first real shooting sessions with a new-to-me White Feather Lark (19” ILF riser) and Soul Black Flash limbs.
I think I’m going to have to echo the words of an old blues standard (also recorded by Led Zeppelin) and tell my vintage hunting bows, “I can’t quit you baby, So I’m gonna put you down for awhile.”
Even with the cheapest (fiberglass/wood) Black Flash limbs, I am by far outshooting every other bow I own with it. I’m glad I got some better ones too. It’ll be interesting to see the differences, if any.
So far, so great. I seem to be keeping up with the Striker RK1 being shot alongside me. It’s a heckuva too-notch bow too.
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Pipcount, thank you for the helpful comments. I’m pretty sure that when I first got the riser, I unscrewed the limb bolts all the way and removed them - and there were no set screws in there. But maybe I’m misremembering. I’ll check again when I have a chance. Even if they aren’t there, I’d still recommend the riser. It appears to be a great value purchase. I’m just a bit annoyed the set screws are missing.
Unfortunately my time is limited and I have a new archery experiment lined up for tonight. I received a thumb ring in the mail last week. So I swapped in some low weight limbs and I’m going to try it tonight with this riser at our indoor 3D league. Right handed (I’m a lefty and so is the bow), off the shelf, thumb ring, about 50 shots worth of experience - I think this shoot will be a memorable one...
On a complete different topic, as I was taking my first few shots right handed, I understood a little better what “The Aimers” have been saying about sight picture. But I’ll save a deep dive into those thoughts for an appropriate thread.
Unfortunately my time is limited and I have a new archery experiment lined up for tonight. I received a thumb ring in the mail last week. So I swapped in some low weight limbs and I’m going to try it tonight with this riser at our indoor 3D league. Right handed (I’m a lefty and so is the bow), off the shelf, thumb ring, about 50 shots worth of experience - I think this shoot will be a memorable one...
On a complete different topic, as I was taking my first few shots right handed, I understood a little better what “The Aimers” have been saying about sight picture. But I’ll save a deep dive into those thoughts for an appropriate thread.
Thank you OP and everyone else who contributed to this thread. You have convinced me to try the 21" version of this riser with a set of TradeTech Black Max 2.0 wood and fiberglass recurve limbs. I will post an update and some pictures once I get the riser and the string for the bow. The M4 / 0.7 coarse 10 or 12 mm set screws for the riser are now available on Amazon at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHVTLQ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Modified the 23" Lark/XL uukha limbs set up this week. The 16 FF Strands were a bit too large on my pin nocks, so twisted up a 12 strand setup. Otherwise: 23" this with "super recurve" XL limbs from Uukha (VX+) that make a 72" AMO with a 25" riser, so about 70" on my 23" riser. Practically, due to the massive recurve on limbs the bow is about as long as a standard 68" bow, making it a bit more pleasant to manage and move around. No big deal on the range, but I sure notice it going in and out of my back door, picking up target, etc.
This is a nice combination- the draw is very smooth at ~31", you can feel the limbs are different vs. standard recurve. The slightly lower length is nice, etc. Long term I want to build out a 2x4 with pegs and my scale, map out the draw weight vs. draw curves and compare for the Uukha VX+ vs. their standard Evo 2 limbs. The data would show the real situation- and I could extend it to the 21" and 19" risers relatively quickly as well, so we could characterize how stuff looks for longer vs. shorter risers with two sets of limbs.
This is a nice combination- the draw is very smooth at ~31", you can feel the limbs are different vs. standard recurve. The slightly lower length is nice, etc. Long term I want to build out a 2x4 with pegs and my scale, map out the draw weight vs. draw curves and compare for the Uukha VX+ vs. their standard Evo 2 limbs. The data would show the real situation- and I could extend it to the 21" and 19" risers relatively quickly as well, so we could characterize how stuff looks for longer vs. shorter risers with two sets of limbs.
I read over this thread again. Great information here. I had pretty much decided on getting a 23”, but the lack of deflex, might sway me towards the 21”. I wonder if the forgiveness factor of 2” more length is cancelled out by the reflex. 🙂
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No. Go back to page 3 and you will see a picture of the limb pad
I’m an idiot. Pipcount was right. My Lark does have set screws. Different size hex wrench required. My apologies to Mr White Feather and his family.
Also, more evidence that I’m an idiot... I didn’t take everyone’s advice regarding those lateral adjustment screws. I lost one. Need to go get some replacements I suppose.
Also, more evidence that I’m an idiot... I didn’t take everyone’s advice regarding those lateral adjustment screws. I lost one. Need to go get some replacements I suppose.
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Don't worry about it. Everyone had the everything for the first time-once.
My riser didn't have the limb bolt set screws so I had to get a set from the local hardware. Wasn't a big deal because you don't really NEED to have them.
The lateral alignment set srews are a different story. You absolutely NEED those. So... don't "suppose" on those and I wouldn't shoot the bow until the replacements were installed.
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I found the LLASs at a Home Depot. Shouldn’t be too hard to track down. I believe it was 57¢ for a pair, whether 10mm or 12mm in length.
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Observation- regarding the limb lateral adjustment capability and what is "right" location:
On my 23", using the "Early Human Tuning Forks", I find the location of the dovetail is quite a bit displaced from the center of the pocket it is in, perhaps 30% to one side more than the other- 2-3mm. Per earlier thread commentary, the location I am using now seems to fit vs. the UUKHA limbs and removed what appeared to be twist, the bow shoots very quietly and seems quite "smooth".
I have not used lateral adjustment on other bows much, so this seems a bit unusual. An earlier 21" I set up I think was also offset quite a bit, used "eyeball" only on that one- not sure, but fellow who bought from me seemed surprised at the adjustment amount.
I remain exceptionally pleased with the bow's shooting and looks, but am very curious- are other shooters finding similar large offset of the lateral limb adjustment screws? If answer is NO... wonder what is up with me- Is it the bow, or "me"?
On my 23", using the "Early Human Tuning Forks", I find the location of the dovetail is quite a bit displaced from the center of the pocket it is in, perhaps 30% to one side more than the other- 2-3mm. Per earlier thread commentary, the location I am using now seems to fit vs. the UUKHA limbs and removed what appeared to be twist, the bow shoots very quietly and seems quite "smooth".
I have not used lateral adjustment on other bows much, so this seems a bit unusual. An earlier 21" I set up I think was also offset quite a bit, used "eyeball" only on that one- not sure, but fellow who bought from me seemed surprised at the adjustment amount.
I remain exceptionally pleased with the bow's shooting and looks, but am very curious- are other shooters finding similar large offset of the lateral limb adjustment screws? If answer is NO... wonder what is up with me- Is it the bow, or "me"?
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805 Posts
Pic is worth a thousand words: On my 23", using the "Early Human Tuning Forks", I find the location of the dovetail is quite a bit displaced from the center of the pocket it is in, perhaps 30% to one side more than the other- 2-3mm. Per earlier thread commentary, the location I am using now seems to fit vs. the UUKHA limbs and removed what appeared to be twist, the bow shoots very quietly and seems quite "smooth".
Image representative of what I mean, although the gaps might be reversed... Others seeing same? Not just "loose when arrived" but that the "right" location is pretty displaced vs. the center of the pocket that holds the dovetail?
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Image representative of what I mean, although the gaps might be reversed... Others seeing same? Not just "loose when arrived" but that the "right" location is pretty displaced vs. the center of the pocket that holds the dovetail?
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pip I have noticed that on my riser that there is a twist coming out of the dovetail slot as well I have not measured if it is out of alignment another issue I am having with the dovetail slot is that it protrudes at least 1 1/16 from the limb pad area and is really digging into my limbs does anybody have a suggestion on how to fix this for now I put Velcro around the dovetail fitting so all of the pressure is not on the edge of the dovetail slot
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23 Posts
sorry 1/16th not 1 1/16
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WabanakiWarrior-
first, get a shorter handle Second: Either return or fix. I would return personally- takes less time out of my life, but then you are out a riser for a while.
Fixes break out as "add something" or "remove something"
"Add something" fix is to go to home depot or a hobby shop, find a 1/16 piece of hard plastic/Aluminum, cut to fit in pocket and around the dovetail pocket. Glue or doublesided tape to hold in place. Heck- might even make bow quieter if you get a hard rubber. Easy to do, quick
"remove something" is to Mill the pocket deeper or file down the aluminum dovetail piece- If the dovetail is thick enough I would try file first for the fix by removal method. When filing I would remove the dovetail and file the "bottom" or solid side if it is thick enough. You might also find a bump or paint spot under there causing the whole issue.
Anyone else seeing the limbs aligned with the dovetail significantly off center in the little pocket/channel as in pic above?
first, get a shorter handle
Second: Either return or fix. I would return personally- takes less time out of my life, but then you are out a riser for a while. Fixes break out as "add something" or "remove something"
"Add something" fix is to go to home depot or a hobby shop, find a 1/16 piece of hard plastic/Aluminum, cut to fit in pocket and around the dovetail pocket. Glue or doublesided tape to hold in place. Heck- might even make bow quieter if you get a hard rubber. Easy to do, quick
"remove something" is to Mill the pocket deeper or file down the aluminum dovetail piece- If the dovetail is thick enough I would try file first for the fix by removal method. When filing I would remove the dovetail and file the "bottom" or solid side if it is thick enough. You might also find a bump or paint spot under there causing the whole issue.
Anyone else seeing the limbs aligned with the dovetail significantly off center in the little pocket/channel as in pic above?
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i started a new thread on my current situation and was advised to send it back
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the channel for the fitting is not deep enough. i was thinking about taking a file to the dovetail fitting but it sticks out about the same depth as the material i need to remove so the only other option is to modify the riser or return
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lol I meant to say there will not be enough material left on the fitting. I would pretty much need to remove the whole bottom of the fitting. my above statement is pretty obvious lol
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